yesterday and today... (oct 6th and 7th 2009)

surfed yesterday around noon and ran into Shawn from ARK paddleboard's and Chris from Shrimp Creole. that was a nice unexpected meeting. we surfed for about 2 hours or so and the waves were really fun. i got a couple of lefts that lined up all the way down the beach and i saw Chris take off on a bomb of a right, it was pretty sick, especially on that log he rides.

today we went into town to get some cash and had lunch at the local market. pollo a la plancha... so good, $3. then we met out friend J.C. at his little surf shop, and chatted for a bit. we told him and his friend that we were going to Madera to surf, so he decided to shut down the shop (he said he rented 2 boards already so it was a good day) and come surf with us. we decided to take a taxi that one of their friends drives, so we could all go together.

the waves were smaller at first, about waist to chest high with some head high sets. we all got a bunch of fun one's then the waves picked up with the tide and on came the crowd. it went from waist to chest high to chest to overhead in a bout an hour and the crowd grew from 7 to about 30..! i got a good right that connected to the inside so i called it a day. i'll be on it early with the falling tide and nobody out.

Monkeys love rice, they hate cheese.


our friend "J.C." at his surf shop "Nica Water"


after the shot I said "que linda!" they thought i was funny. really good pollo al la plancha (and a coke) for $3 from these ladies


watching the street...


bees, that try to get me everyday. so far i'm winning.


jungle fruit? i tried to dare Pat to eat one.